![]() ![]() We used an upright log on the corner, (it's painted white in the picture). ![]() I don't have any good pictures of a quick corner, this about the best I could find. Good locking style corner, but slow to make.ĭovetail, another good locking style corner, but also slow to make. Saddle notch, scribed line then chop to fit. And frankly they are the worst possible type of corner to use on a cabin in my opinion. Contrary to popular opinion, people were using the quick corners up here a long time before Marty M "invented" it. We tried a lot of different types of corners over the years, saddle notch, dovetail, mortise and tenon (trapper notch), and what we called "quick corners" like the one on this cabin. It was built about 100 yards from a river bank, and within three years time the river took her out. This one was built out of green cottonwood logs. You have to make telescoping flashing for brick or stone chimneys so the building can slide down the chimney as it shrinks.ĪK Hunter them will cost you and they are pretty high dollar!! ha ha, just joking. It might be 3/4 inch for 4 of vertical wall, but that might be wrong. I'll have to look it up, its different for different species. I don't remember the formula for shrinkage. ![]() I'll get the foundation ready this summer and cut the wood next winter. I am going to build a hewn log building with Scandinavian scribe fit and corners. My dad planted a few acres of red pine 50 years ago, and I need to thin the plantation. I will have to line the sauna room with cedar or poplar, cause pine knots will burn you and drip hot sap in the hot sauna room. I'm building my sauna with an old time summer kitchen attached out of red pine, cause that is what I have. We built ours out of white cedar, and the big butts and the small tops were very difficult to notch and fit tight. White cedar is light and lasts long, but it usually tapers very fast, making for difficulties in the corners. White pine sap stains bad, hard to find in the right size too, otherwise its nice to work with. I have seen really nice jack pine in places too. If you can find a stand of straight jack pine, that should be good too, but its usually branchy and tapered. I would say red pine (Norway pine) would be good, it doesn't tend to have extreme taper, its not extremely heavy, easy to work, and strong. Dale, what species of tree do you recommend in Minnesota? ![]()
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